Week 9 - Dakar again!

“Thick headed commentators upon the Bible, and stupid preachers and teachers, work more damage to religion than sensible, cool brained clergymen can fight away again, toil as they may”

“Christ knew well how to preach to these simple, superstitious, disease tortured creatures: He healed the sick...no wonder his deeds were the talk of the nation”

“The sides are daubed with a smooth white plaster, and tastefully frescoed aloft and alow with disks of camel-dung placed there to dry. This gives the edifice the romantic appearance of having been riddled with cannon-balls, and imparts to it a very war-like aspect. When the artist has arranged his materials with an eye to just proportion, I know nothing more cheerful to look upon than a spirited Syrian fresco.”

“One must travel, to learn”

“That Adam was formed of dirt procured in this very spot is amply proven by the fact that in six thousand years no man has ever been able to prove that the dirt was not procured here whereof he was made”.

“We do not think, in the holy places; we think in bed, afterwards, when the glare, and the noise, and the confusion are gone, and in fancy we revisit alone, the solemn monuments of the past, and summon the phantom of an age that has passed away.”

“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts”

Well there we go, finally finished The Innocents Abroad. A thoroughly enjoyable read, covering Europe as well as middle-eastern travel, and plenty of humour and prejudiced of the time to make it hilarious as well as illuminating.

(The sand rather lends authenticity)

Shower in a thunderstorm. Not really done that since Typhoon season in Japan. Really rather fun, especially with the amount of lightening here. Some of the closest flashes light up the garden as if in daylight.

So, it was only a matter of time before the football excursion was discovered, and therefore the much guessed at punishment, which was a mock sending home of myself. This rather back fired when all of the UK volunteers stood up and asked to be sent home as well, seeing as they had all been at the football as well. My first thoughts were, “but I still have to get a shirt made with the material I bought in Dakar”, and “Mum will be happy” as my parents will be away when I return. After a long afternoon of bickering and petty politics, involving all the volunteers and the ICS supervisor, that my first thoughts were not of regret about leaving Senegal are understandable, but not suggestive of my thoughts of the country or the time spent here. I have very much enjoyed living in Senegal, and the work we have done has been truly important. However, just as in Kazakhstan, when we were told, 8 months into a supposed 2 year commitment, that we were leaving, emotions were mixed, although remarkably similar both times; Disappointment at leaving projects and work unfinished, yet joy to be escaping the weather (this time the heat, instead of the Kazakh cold) and the food (again, far too many carbohydrates and meat and not enough vegetables). Instead of being sent home, I was given lines to do instead, naughty boy that I am. 

 (Windows in Goree)

Oh well, I am here for another week, and aim to get as much work done as possible! Not really any more opportunities for me to lead the team into trouble though, having seen and visited the two forbidden places (Touba and the football). Not that I have set myself the challenge, I promise. 

 (Bit of modern art, Goree)

We worked on Tuesday at a blood giving drive, aimed squarely at the young (Catholic) community of Thies. All of the Senegalese volunteers gave blood as well, although the UK volunteers were not allowed to. It is unclear if this was due to us being on anti-malarial medication (which would exclude one from giving blood in the UK), or if it was simply due to being foreign, which was the reason I wasn't able to give blood while living in Japan.

 (Gun turrets, questionable art, and Dakar in the background)

On Wednesday we spent the day gardening in front of the main catholic church, as part of a week of 'youth activities' organised by the Catholic diocese here. The current messiness of the flower beds was blamed on 'Muslims and their goats', which seemed like a believable response here as despite the peace and harmony between the two religions - to restate, Islam has a 94% national following - there are huge levels of distrust. The Muslims constitute the convenient 'other' so required in any society, in order to make one group feel better/more important/righteous. While Britain may resort to class, or the North/South divide, here it is religion, even more than tribe that is important. The Muslims are untrustworthy, cheats, terrorists, goat herders, dirty, old fashioned and stupid, and I can only imagine the Christians are seen as debauched drunkards, immoral, basically colonial peons set on destroying Senegalese tradition. With such distrust and peddling of stereotypes, it is therefore wonderful that there exists such peace, inter-marriage and mixed villages!

(Colours in Goree)

I have lost 6kg in my time in Africa, which puts me at 80kg and perfect for a cycling racing season. Alas, as ill be off to Cambodia next week, it won't be usable. Will have to see how the diet and lifestyle of Cambodia effects my weight.

 (Slave building- whites upstairs, the slaves downstairs)

Managed to find the only English speaking taxi driver in Thies the other day, and had a fun drive home, with him pointing out the houses of the corrupt politicians, or 'money eaters' as he quaintly phrased it. Corruption here (and in West Africa in general from what I have seen) is systematic amongst politicians, and seen as a reward of office. This has the effect of both attracting certain people to political life, and alienating the population. Neither of which is healthy for a democracy, and countries struggling with huge social and resource based problems.

Our final free weekend for exploring Senegal saw us back in Dakar. It really is huge and varied and I can hardly claim to have seen it all now in four days, but I have certainly gotten a feel for the place, and seen the main sights.

(Only building not looking lovely, and its being done up right now- The Town Hall, Goree)

Ile de Goree is touted as the premier tourist attraction in the country, and having spent four hours there, I agree. The original western settlement in the Dakar area, it formed the centre of the slaving industry for three hundred years. Its importance is easily seen today by the two forts, impressive houses, a big church and general signs of prosperity. Unlike Saint Louis, which is quietly crumbling away, Goree has been maintained and looked after, and the colourful houses, bougainvillea, quiet alleys and general atmosphere (away from the tourist craziness of the ferry terminal) create a very beautiful destination. Despite being popular with tourists, the ferry was overwhelmingly made up of Senegalese visitors, and it is great to see that Dakar's middle-class is able to support its own attractions. Now it just has to work on art galleries and museums, which are distinctly lacking!

(Just another ally on Goree)

The former slave house- where upstairs the owners and dealers lived, and downstairs the slaves were crammed into tiny cells. With 95% of the visitors there being African, and with guides and signs explaining the horrors of the slave trade it was impossible to feel anything other than guilty, coming from a former slaving country. Rather like being British and visiting Amritsar (site of a colonial massacre), or American and Little Big Horn, or possibly German and Auschwitz, the sense of guilt for something carried out by our ancestors is strong (for me at least). It also highlights how the repercussions for our actions can have consequences for many generations – I wonder how future Britons will judge our generation for our actions regarding Israel, or Iraq or rainforests...sorry in advance!

One of the forts, which, by the looks of it was fortified up until WW1 and possibly WW2, offers a very strange contrast between war and peace. With large cannons dotting the hills, and the defences and walls still in good condition, the whole area now has been taken over by artists and musicians. While most of the work is repetitive and frankly crap, the image they provide, of peace and art surviving after war has finished was strangely uplifting. 

 (The Island)

Another site I wanted to visit was the Grand Mosque in the centre of Dakar. Its single minaret is visible across most of the city, and as the focal point for Islam in a city of three million, I felt sure it must be worth visiting. I arrived just after midday prayers, and after the flood of the devout had filed out, all that was left were the beggars and cripples, seemingly from half of Africa. Just as with Christian churches of old, the giving of 'alms' after services is a strong part of Islam, but here it felt as it there was a 1:1 beggar to attendee ratio. It made being a visitor really uncomfortable, as the classic stereotype of white = rich was never more keenly felt, and I had to leave quickly. Which was fine, as architecturally, the mosque was nothing special at all. What looked like fine sculpture and mosaic work from afar was just concrete moulding and large painted tiles, in the modern 'flat-pack' mosque style to which most new mosques conform. 

 (Neighbours)

One brief thought that came to me, was how amazing Google maps on one's phone is. Internet not required to work out, via GPS where you are, and you can therefore follow your journey in a bus say, without needing to know exactly when to get off before hand..... life saver given all the travelling i do, to countries where i don't speak the language.

Entering final week of work.... bring on Cambodia and the UN!